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| AHYMSIN Newsletter, Issue - Mar 2013 | |||||
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Kumbha Melaby Pierre LefebvreHow can one try to describe what Kumbha Mela is to someone who has never experienced it… perhaps in the same way that one can try to describe what sweet is to someone who has never tasted it. I could have said that:  Kumbha Mela is the largest religious festival in the world, that it happens once every twelve years, and that it alternates between four locations where drops of the nectar of immortality are said to have fallen: Allahabad, Haridwar, Ujjain and Nasik. I could have added that the one held at Allahabad, the meeting point of the Ganga, Yamuna and the mystical Saraswati rivers is the most important among all four. I could have also said that over a hundred million… ONE HUNDRED MILLION people are expected during the fifty five days of the present Kumbha Mela (almost three times the entire population of Canada), or that an entire tent city has been constructed on the river bed at the meeting point of Ganga and Yamuna, in an area covering over 58 square kilometres. It would have been impressive to say that more than twenty five thousand policemen are managing the security, or it might have been surreal to mention that the central Indian government allowed 10350 billion rupees (about 190 billion dollars) for the organisation of the event. I could have said all these things, but I’ll decide to take an other direction instead… Getting there As I was sitting in Sadhaka Grama’s Meditation Hall attending a lecture a few months back, the phone in my pocket rang. The voice at the other hand asked me if I was interested to go to Allahabad to help with Swamiji’s programme at the Kumbha Mela in January since some other people had to cancel their journey… Being naughty, I answered that “I would think about it!” Of course I agreed, and on January 10th, I was part of a group of about 12 people from the ashram on our way to Allahabad. Reaching Allahabad was a little bit of a struggle, because our train was delayed for several hours as we were approaching the city. The flow of people converging to the Kumbha Mela being so important, the Railway authorities have added a total of 750 extra trains to and from Allahabad especially for the event, causing “occasionally” some difficulties in managing the platforms and therefore delays in reaching the station. Shahi SnanOur first day there brought us a wonderful surprise. We decided to go to see the Mela ground after lunch and we ended up at the Niranjani Akhara’s camp. There we met one Swami who invited us to join the Akhara’s procession to the river confluence for the Shahi Snan (Royal Bath) of the 14th, the day of Makara Sankranti, which was marking the official opening of the fifty-five day event. Taking photo and video camera along, we went to spend the night in a tent at the Akhara’s camp. Things became surreal the next morning, we could almost see the energy float in the air. Thousands of people shouting ecstatically “har har Mahadev” and “bam bam Bhole” inside the camp, Mahamandaleshwaras sitting on their chariots pulled by tractors with their followers behind them and getting in line for the procession to the holy bathing site. Naga Babas (naked warrior monks) smeared in ashes and decorated with flowers raising their swords high above their heads, dancing and shouting praise to Lord Shiva. All of that in the dark background of the morning that hadn’t arrived yet, lit with dimmed lights and perfumed by the smoky fragrance from the fires everywhere the eye can land. Then our turn came. The Niranjani Akhara was the third to bathe, after the Maha Nirvani and Atal Akharas. The camp gate opened and everybody took their place, the procession being led by the Nagas. Walking with them was quite an experience. I had been warned about the Nagas’ tendency to be short tempered and their dislike for being photographed or filmed, so I was a little hesitant to come near them at first, but I found out that they were very warm and open and that they actually seemed to like being photographed. The electricity continued to rise throughout the hour and more of the procession as we walked closer and closer to the holy water of the confluence. When we reached, it became a race to the water, every sadhu and follower being filled with deep devotion and firm belief that a bath at the Kumbha Mela on an auspicious day like this one would wash off their sins and grant them salvation.   One interesting thing is that I could find immediately the rest of our group among that impressive crowd at the riverbank after having been separated from them while taking photos of the procession. We then all got down to our underwear and ran to the water like everyone else.  As I entered the water, my mental and physical states seemed to change. I could not really relate to the cold water. I would register that it was cold as an information, but at the same time, it would not affect my body, I could feel the separation of the garment and the wearer. I went as far as I could in the water, and decided to take a dip. Among that huge crowd in the middle of the water with that high energy and devotional feeling surrounding me, it was quite an experience just to try to remember to whom I had told I would take a dip for. Then I took my first dip. My whole being seemed to be touched by an intense electric current and I didn’t know where I was anymore. It was definitely something more than the water temperature, which I was not feeling at that point. Then I continued taking dips, trying to remember to whom and whom I had promised to do it. My mind and senses were being affected and overwhelmed by that strong input of energy and were not functioning in their usual way. Thinking back on that experience, something unusual was definitely happening… …The tradition of the Kumbha Mela gets lost in history, going back thousands of years. There must be a reason why it is still celebrated with so much devotion and faith on each occasion. Something unique is definitely there, and whatever that “something” is, it cannot be described in words (“jnana”), it has to be experienced (“vijnana”). The faith of millions, condensed in one place at one time definitely creates a unified common mind field, and one can experience a state of a much stronger energetic mental intensity than one would in other circumstances. The estimated crowd who took the Royal Bath on that day is of 8.2 million people. Everyone was happy and peaceful and the policemen were polite and helpful with the pilgrims, which is an accomplishment in itself in India. Samashthi Bhandara  The main purpose of Swamiji’s presence at the Kumbha Mela was to offer a bhandara to sadhus at the camp of the Niranjani Akhara, where he holds the title of Mahamandaleshwara. It was impressive to see how much respect the other high ranked Swamis and Mahamandaleshwaras have for Swami Veda. Among those who we talked to, many were saying that Swamiji’s knowledge of the scriptures is unparalleled and that they have deep respect for his mission to spread yoga, meditation and Indian philosophy around the world. It really made me feel extremely privileged to have been in his presence for many years now, to have lived at Sadhaka Grama for almost seven years and to be able to learn from him (even at the very low level I’m at!).   The view of several hundred sadhus and devotees sitting on the ground in lines almost as far as the eye can see was quite spectacular. Mahamandaleshwaras (including women) were having their special seats, some of them attending the event only to be in Swamiji’s presence. After a short puja and traditional recitations of verses from the Bhagavad Gita, the meal began. Dakshina (monetary offerings) were given to the sadhus on behalf of Swamiji, the food was distributed through the unending rows of renunciates, the puris (small fried flat breads) were fried in burning hot oil at the location what was used as a kitchen. The serving plates were being filled from the immense cooking pots, everything was running perfectly smoothly… five thousand people were being fed.   When everyone had eaten, the signal to get up was given and the entire rows stood at once. Within a few seconds, there were only lines of empty plates on the ground. Everything was then cleaned, only to serve a second, then a third and a fourth group… perhaps even more. Swami Veda taking a holy dip  Swamiji decided that since he was there at the Kumbha Mela, he would like to take a holy dip at the confluence. So, the day after the bhandara, we were back at the Mela site. Swamis from the Akhara organised an escort to reach up to the bating point by car. Swamiji’s car went through the restricted area, escorted by a police car and a car from the Akhara. We then took a small boat to reach the middle of the river, exactly at the point where Ganga and Yamuna meet, we could even see the current of the two rivers meet together. The boat traffic was incredible, and it was stupefying to see such an organisation and order within what apparently seems to be a complete chaos. To our great surprise, Swamiji found the strength to get down in the water and take several full dips. He said afterwards that the cold water was a shock on his heart on the first dip, but that he quickly recovered to take three or four more.   After Swamiji was done, we all took dips. Even Medha, Swamiji’s secretary was in the water before we even knew about it. It was very playful and pleasant to bathe in the late morning sun. Once everyone was dry again, we took the boat back to the shore. On our way, we fed flocks of Siberian birds, which migrate to India in the winter. Tour of the Mela grounds  Coming back to the car, a number of little street children personifying Shiva came to surround Swamiji. Despite their difficult life, their smiles were so charming and genuine. They continued their way after getting some money from our group. After sitting in the Car, Medha asked Swamiji if he was tired or if he wished to have a tour of the Mela grounds. To our great delight, Swamiji readily approved of the idea.   Swamiji was in good mood, definitely energised by his dip. He first asked his driver Succha Singh to stop for roadside chai. The car stopped once we found a chai stall serving in the traditional little clay glasses. It was such a great pleasure to enjoy a sip of tea on the road with Swamiji. But it was only the beginning, it got even better. A tamed elephant came close to our car and Surendra, Swamiji’s cook, started feeding biscuits. As he was feeding the animal, Swamiji started explaining to me about how the Indians would see elephants differently from westerners, how they would worship any elephant as if it was Ganesha, the deity remover of obstacles. He then got up from his car seat and asked for biscuits to feed the elephant himself. It was not a lecture, but it was definitely a teaching. He fed and petted the elephant lovingly with devotion, recognising the divinity in all beings.  We then continued our way around the different camps, looking at them, listening to Swamiji’s colourful and varied comments on what was coming through our way. We stopped to look at a few camps, shopped for books, saw a Ras Leela performance, met devotees who were seeking blessings from Swamis. The whole day was memorable, such a unique and rare quality time with Swamiji in a relaxed and enjoyable context, it will be remembered for years to come. And our time at the Kumbha Mela was not over yet! More is to follow… Editor's Note:Pierre was a student at the SRSG Gurukulam for 7 years. He now lives in Canada with his wife Mina. He teaches hatha yoga and meditation as well as music in Saint-Hyacinthe, Quebec, Canada. His website is www.yogahimalaya.ca
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